We're busy organising our information evening this Thursday for our Writing in Paris trip in November. If you can't make it to this session and you'd like to hear more about this fabulous writing opportunity, here's an article from previous participant Therese Spruhan.
FOR the first few days after I arrive in Paris I feel like I have been magically transported to a mythical land – like The Little Prince arriving on earth in Antoine de Saint-Exupery’s famous book. Maybe it is the jet lag but everything around me seems surreal. Two days ago I was in Sydney and now I am living in an apartment in Montmartre.
I am here to do a 16-day ‘Writing in Paris’ course led by Australian memoirist Patti Miller. To ensure we get to experience life as a Parisian, if only for a short time, for the duration of our stay we live in apartments rather than hotels. The 11 members of the group are based in different locations across the city. Some are staying on the left bank in the Jardin des Plantes quarter and at Montparnasse in the 14th arrondisement. On the right bank, others are living near the Champs-Elysees and Place de la Bastille.
Stay in your own apartment
My home is a comfortable apartment on Rue des Abbesses, Montmartre in the 18th arrondisement. I am sharing the two-bedroom apartment with Vanessa, a 30-year-old medical research scientist from Sydney who is also taking the course.
Over the next couple of weeks, Vanessa and I settle into life in Montmartre, a very stylish area with lots of cosy restaurants and bars, boutiques, patisseries, delicatessens – as well as specialist cheese, seafood, fruit and vegetables and stationery shops. We get to know the various shopkeepers on our street, and very quickly realise the importance of always saying ‘bonjour’ when we enter a shop and ‘au revoir’ when we leave. We also notice that we only need to return to a shop twice and we are treated as regulars.
Famous sights of Paris
We become very familiar with many of the sights in the area especially Sacre Coeur, the Roman Byzantine-style basilica which stands proudly on the highest point in Paris. When we climb the 327 steps of the church’s dome, we are rewarded with a fantastic view of the city and the Eiffel Tower in the distance. On my strolls around the area I frequently drop in and light a candle, and am moved by the beautiful voices of a group of Benedictine nuns when I attend Mass there one Sunday. When I venture further a-field, the elevated position of the basilica, built after the Franco-Prussian war, helps me find my way home.
Each week day morning we walk to our local Metro station – Abbesses – one of the few original Art Nouveau stations in Paris, to make the easy journey to our writing class on Rue de Birague in the Marais area. The venue is just two minutes walk from Place des Vosges where the French writer Victor Hugo used to live.
Coffee and Croissants
Fuelled with coffee and pastries, we listen to stories about French, English and American writers who
have lived and worked in Paris. We explore the importance of awareness and observation, structure and form. We learn to let go of our inhibitions and desire for perfection and just write. We write for 10 minutes about the hands of someone we know, about an emotion or an experience. We learn to stop procrastinating, stop thinking and let the words flow. And over the eight days of workshops, we develop an appreciation for the different styles and experiences of the members of the group.
When the class finishes at 1pm, we are free to enjoy the delights of Paris. Many of us begin the afternoon with lunch and a mandatory glass of wine at Café Crème, a restaurant below our workshop venue. After our delicious French meal, we set off in a group, pairs or on our own to visit a market, Notre Dame or Sainte Chapelle, enjoy a boat trip down the Seine, climb the Eiffel Tower, or take a stroll in the Luxembourg Gardens or the Tuileries. Other afternoons are spent experiencing the wonderful artworks at the Rodin Museum, the Louvre, Musee d’Orsay, the Picasso Museum, the Pompidou Centre or the Musee de L’Orangerie. A number of people also find the time to shop.
We enjoy one very expensive cocktail in the Ernest Hemingway Bar at the Ritz Hotel at Place Vendome. Another evening is spent at a café near St Sulpice Church in the Luxembourg quarter where we listen to a talk from James Bradley, an Australian writer living at the Australia Council’s garret in Cite des Artes. We hear about the influences on his writing and the experience of living and writing in Paris.
Literary delights
We also get to enjoy the culinary delights of the city, with a number of lunches and dinners included in the trip. A highlight is a night at La Closerie des Lilas in Montparnasse, famous as a meeting place for writers, musicians and artists since its establishment in the late 19th century. Ernest Hemingway, Oscar Wilde, Jean-Paul Sartre and Samuel Beckett – to name just a few – were regular visitors to La Closerie des Lilas’ bars and garden restaurant. In fact, Hemingway is said to have written much of his novel The Sun Also Rises on the restaurant’s terrace.
Visiting La Closerie des Lilas is like stepping into a world where everyone is in a good mood. Patrons entering the bar are greeted like long lost friends – including us. With no tables spare, we sit at the bar and watch Thomas and Salem our friendly waiters make exotic cocktails. Sipping on French champagne we are served green peppery olives and other tasty hors d’oeuvres. As the piano plays in the background, lovers lean into each other and kiss. Intense and animated conversations take place at tables engraved with the names of writers, artists and musicians who regularly sat there. When it’s time to leave, Thomas and Salem shower us with souvenirs and we warmly embrace.
Day trips from Paris
On the weekends we have the opportunity to visit the historic and beautiful town of Chartres and tour its famous cathedral. We also make the short train journey out of Paris to see the spectacular palaces and gardens of Fontainebleau and Versailles.
Our final evening is spent at Vagenende Restaurant on the Boulevard St Germain on the left bank. In the ornate belle époque surroundings we enjoy each other’s company, delicious food and fine wine. We say au revoir to Paris and drink to our rich and intense experience over the past 16 days. We leave the beautiful city of light inspired and with a strong desire to return home and continue to write.
Well, that's certainly inspired me. Maybe it's inspired you too? Click here for more details.
Images: Early morning at Sacre Coeur, Edith Piaf statue near Gambetta Metro, Looking towards the Eiffel Tower - Therese Spruhan.